sabato, maggio 27, 2006

Thursday: Field Trip

Thursday was a busy day, and involved much travelling around the center of Rome.

I have to do a project for my Caravaggio and the Carracci class on Carlo Saraceni, who is a kind-of-important-but-not-really Baroque artist who did a lot of work in Rome and environs between 1600 and 1620, when he died. Of interest is the fact that he was one of the first artists in Rome to use copper as a support instead of canvas or panel. I found a paperback copy of the fantastic Guide Rosse for Rome, and then used the wonderful Google Earth to plot where all of his paintings in Rome are, so that I could visit them in the most efficient way possible. Soon I'll put the file on the Google Earth Community, but I haven't yet.

To visit the Saraceni paintings, I visited San Lorenzo in Lucina, and Santa Maria dell'Anima. I also went to Santa Maria in Aquiro, but I got thrown out because they were praying the rosary. There are still a few more to visit, including one in Trastevere I'll go to on Monday between classes. For my project, I think I've decided on a painting in Santa Maria dell'Anima, the German national church in Rome, because the story of the miracle is so wild and so is the painting. It's of Saint Benno or Bennone pulling the keys to the cathedral of Meißen (near Dresden) out of the stomach of a fish from the Elbe River. Nothing I've ever heard of before, but evidently quite important to the Germans.

For the field trip for my class, we met on the Campidoglio, then went down to visit the Mattei Chapel in Santa Maria della Consolazione, and then back up the hill to Santa Maria in Aracoeli, for another Mattei Chapel there. After that, we stopped by the rooms of Saint Ignatius of Loyola at the Gesù, and finally we ended up at Santa Maria sopra Minerva. Most of what we looked at slightly predated Caravaggio, and was meant to show us the context into which Caravaggio arrived in Rome.

It took me about 2 hours to get back up the Cassia, because I took the 53 bus from Piazza San Silvestro, and it goes through Parioli, where traffic was at a standstill.